“Tweed is central to this collection. I thought a lot about Gabrielle Chanel but I didn’t want to recreate Coco’s look, when she was wearing the Duke of Westminster’s jackets. I took my cue from the Coco who brought colour to her tweeds. I added a vibrant, pop spirit to them.”
Manchester is the basis of a music culture that has changed the face of the world. Today, it is the meeting point for all those who identify with it. “For me, Manchester is the city of music, confides Virginie Viard. It incites creation.”
The show takes place in Thomas Street, in the North of Manchester, at dusk, hence the importance being heeded to colour. It is all about feelings. Suits, bags and strings of pearls align around a shimmering, pop palette. Salmon pink, pumpkin, apple green, mustard, sky blue, red and rust light up a horizon that is all at once feminine and singular. Instead of a rock look, the Artistic Director is focusing on the poetry of emotions with a dash of the sixties.
Using utmost simplicity and absolute precision, she wanted this 2023/24 Métiers d’art collection to be faithful to the House codes. In addition to each of the codes that make it so modern – the chains at the bottom of the jackets, the contrasting inner fabrics, the multiple topstitched panels allowing for a great freedom of movement – this is a celebration of Gabrielle Chanel’s own art of tailoring. Even the tops of the skirts are in the same fabric as the inside of the jackets and coats, offering a continuity of line to the gaze.
Ideas of Great Britain evoke wraparound skirts, miniskirts with godets, Bermuda shorts, shirts, coatdresses all featured in tweed, knitwear in Shetland and cashmere. Cuts are fitted, and skirt waists worn slightly low on the hips.
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Pleats, feather and embroidery work along with hats and jewelled buttons crafted by the Métiers d’art resident at le19M enhance the allure of this collection. Teapots, vinyl records and cute flowers all add fun touches. The collection dares a certain candour with black Mary-Jane shoes. Jeans, leather, knitwear including babydoll nighties and strapless dresses complete the ensemble, investing domains as varied as football, Manchester’s music scene or the English countryside.
With a vibrant sensitivity and musicality, the 2023/24 Métiers d’art collection evokes the ever-youthful love story between CHANEL and Great Britain, an adventure that has lasted for over a century.
