A prologue to his first runway presentation in January 2019, Kris Van Assche issues his spring/summer 2019 capsule collection for Berluti. The idea of establishing the very essentials of a contemporary men’s wardrobe structures a blueprint for things to come. Defining the silhouettes and volumes of a reinvented Berluti, blank canvases are determined for future development through tailoring: the two-button suit jacket, the white poplin shirt, and the tuxedo, in black and in white. Garments and accessories appear understated, emphasising the nascent notion of core menswear basics including sportswear: the bomber jacket, the letter jacket, the track top and bottom.
Observing the heritage of Berluti, artistic director Kris Van Assche identifies the trademarks of the maison and reinterprets them for a new intergenerational era. The classic ‘Alessandro’ oxford is expanded in a thicker leather sole, while it’s traditionally hand-worked patina signature is developed in a dual blue and red colourway, echoed in bags. The archival ‘Andy’ loafer – named after Warhol – is elevated on a creeper sole. The ‘Scritto’, an eighteenth
century manuscript motif inherent to Berluti, features in a graphic print on casualwear and bags, allowing the maison’s own history to initiate new beginnings.
A nod to the future, the new ‘Berluti 1895 Paris’ signature – unveiled in Kris Van Assche’s first campaign for the house in June – is emblazoned on a jacket, sweatshirt and t-shirt. Drawing a line between past and present, the properties of the leather accessories that form Berluti’s background morph into clothes: a black leather suit, a red leather hoodie, and a black leather cap. Chunky leather trainers capturing the collection’s colour scheme in black, white, red, blue and green manifestations reflect the notion of new classics and turn an early page for
forthcoming exploration.
The look book was photographed at the Berluti workshop in Ferrara, Italy in June 2018 by Alessio Bolzoni, with styling by Mauricio Nardi. Kris Van Assche joined Berluti as Artistic Director in April 2018.
