Progressive Styling

Valentino presents a lovely androgynous line that reimagines classic black-tie attire

By The Time Place Magazine

Can you break free from the traditional norm of universal symbolism? For Pierpaolo Piccioli, the answer is a resounding yes.

For the Fall/Winter 2023 season, Valentino’s Creative Director has embraced the concept of “black tie” quite literally, transforming it from a mere figure of speech into the foundational idea behind his latest fashion collection. This line defies conventional norms by seamlessly integrating elements from our everyday lives. In doing so, it overturns our preconceived notions about the necktie, a symbol historically associated with male authority and a rigid adherence to tradition. Instead, Piccioli’s vision liberates this seemingly mundane accessory, reimagining it as the theoretical cornerstone upon which his collection is built.

The traditional significance of the necktie, laden with notions of masculine power and orthodoxy, undergoes a profound transformation within this collection. Piccioli masterfully subverts our expectations, employing the tie as a central motif to challenge established fashion conventions and to emancipate its inherent symbolism. The very ideology that once anchored the necktie’s meaning is tested, contradicted, and ultimately, wholly redefined.

Signifiers undergo a fascinating metamorphosis, shedding their old skins to become entirely new garments in Pierpaolo Piccioli’s vision. The conventional tie, once synonymous with restraint, is now set free, gliding seamlessly between the sartorial language of both casual and formal attire, blurring the boundaries of day and evening wear. The fusion of shirts and ties gives rise to a diverse array of dresses and gowns, where traditional garments are ingeniously adapted to accommodate both long and short skirts, breaking down gender norms with their universal appeal.

Within this collection, an unyielding commitment to meticulous tailoring commands the spotlight, accentuating the practicality and utility of everyday attire. Yet, in the signature style that defines Valentino, several pieces are imbued with the ethereal beauty of feathers, adorning garments such as coats, jackets, and even long dresses. The runway also bears witness to the presence of sheer fabrics and bejewelled short skirts, coexisting harmoniously with the rich heritage of Maison Valentino, which boasts its own unique and unmistakable lexicon. In this collection, you’ll find the timeless elegance of couture gestures, striking graphic patterns, and unparalleled craftsmanship seamlessly intertwined with the brand’s enduring values.

At the same time, a new legacy is being forged in the world of Valentino’s accessories. The iconic Rockstud, originally introduced in 2010, has now become a central motif in the entire presentation, embellishing not only Valentino Garavani shoes but also handbags and accessories. Amidst this collection, you’ll find an exhilarating spectrum of styles, from Valentino neon pink heels to knee-length boots and even shoes adorned with delicate feathers. To complete the ensemble, a wide range of handbags is offered, available in various sizes and an array of captivating colours. This interplay of aesthetics forms a nuanced dialogue, one that bridges history and the contemporary, drawing from both the classical elegance of a renaissance era and the rebellious spirit of punk culture.

What was once seen as a societal instrument of conformity, the concept of uniformity undergoes a profound transformation, emerging as a unique lens through which to magnify and accentuate human diversity and individuality. Rather than erasing our distinctive identities, homogeneity can be envisioned as a canvas upon which each person paints their own unique persona. With fashion, commonalities now serve to amplify the beauty of our differences and highlight the subtleties that make us who we are.

Valentino’s Black Tie is now an instruction that has the potential to transform into an inviting opportunity, a dress code that can evolve into a symbol of liberation, removing limitations hence paradoxically setting all of us free. In the same vein, universally accepted symbols can be ripe for reinterpretation and redefinition.